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"Some people substitute sautéed spinach -- watching their carbs, you know," our server told us after describing the polenta that would underlay a special of braised short ribs. Whoever those people are, they should be banned from this restaurant. Nothing could come close to matching the simplicity of these beef ribs, braised until the meat slides off the bone in flavorful shreds, set atop creamy polenta that soaked up every drop of the meaty juices. It was the only dish that had us fighting for the last bite.

Well, that and a slice of serious-looking three-layer chocolate cake, interspersed with chocolate mousse and topped with ganache. Served with a big scoop of house-made banana ice cream on the side, Tony's signature dessert has earned the honorific. If you're getting in touch with your inner child, go for the soup and sandwich: a cup of warm dark-chocolate dipping sauce and a vanilla ice cream sandwich made with long, thin house-made chocolate cookies. Messy and fun. Rice pudding with dried cherries might tempt you. You might think the molten chocolate cake is just another dessert cliché, a holdover from a few years ago when every restaurant had to have the oozing chocolate lava confectionary. But keep in mind: Everything old is new again.

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