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Burritos — meat, lettuce, sour cream and cheese — are on the plump side. I ordered mine with marinated pork, a touch sweet. On another visit I had a torta with chicken in "red sauce." This was roughly the same shade as the fiery red salsa, but the chicken — and, despite its jalapeños, the torta as a whole — had a muted flavor.

I saved tacos al pastor for my last visit. They didn't look different from the tacos al pastor at La Vallesana, except for a couple of thin slices of raw radish atop each. I squeezed lime and spooned red salsa over one, folded it in my palm and took a bite.

Delicious.

But.

There was no explosion of pineapple. I could taste it, faintly, but it was an accent for the pork rather than a foil. And so I disassembled my taco to find that the pork was chopped into relatively small cubes, the pineapple diced. I put the taco back together and finished it in one tasty bite.

Honestly, I didn't care if Chris or anyone else who had witnessed this scene thought less of me. Give me a plate of tacos al pastor, and I'll happily paw through it for degrees of deliciousness, as fat and oblivious as a pigeon.

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