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Herb-encrusted salmon was really a salmon fillet seasoned, not "encrusted," with herbs. This was a nice piece of fish cooked half a minute too long, hinting at the unpleasant taste of overcooked salmon. A portion of flatiron steak in a cabernet jus was tender, but the meat's flavor was lost in the jus, which bore a generically beefy, slightly bitter flavor, like canned beef broth.

Desserts include the usual suspects: flourless chocolate cake, carrot cake, crème brûlée. The carrot cake was average, the cake itself decent but the topping too heavy on whipped cream, too light on cream cheese. The crème brûlée offered an interesting twist, with three small custards — your standard vanilla along with chocolate and pear-anise — rather than one. I liked the chocolate best; the pear-anise offered a welcome departure from the standard version, though its pear flavor was rather faint.

If Robust's menu as a whole doesn't vary too much from standard wine-bar offerings, that's not necessarily a bad thing. This is food meant to be shared, a component of an evening out, like good company and good conversation. The wine is what brings it all together. Which is what my T-shirt would say.

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