Restaurants

Building a Better Bistro: Chef Andy White proves there's life after Balaban's at Off the Vine

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For a restaurant that calls itself "Off the Vine," the wine list fails to inspire. The main varietals and regions are covered, but even casual oenophiles will recognize most producers. Wines by the glass are available as three- or six-ounce pours. Such a format works best when customers can try three-ounce pours of more expensive wines, but Off the Vine's by-the-glass list is perfunctory. The beer list, by contrast, features some uncommon selections, including Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout and Hitachino Nest Ale.

Service was friendly and polished, especially for a restaurant not yet three months old. From kitchen to floor, Off the Vine functions like a veteran restaurant, the sort of place discerning diners return to again and again for plain good food.

In that sense, Off the Vine may be a tad too comfortable for my taste. White's menu at Balaban's was more adventurous — you don't see sweetbreads and rabbit on other local bills of fare.

Which, sadly, might be how St. Louisans like it.

In an excellent article on Balaban's closing, Joe Bonwich, my conterpart at the Post-Dispatch, wrote that one reason the "new" Balaban's faltered was the fact that some regulars didn't appreciate the wholesale changes to the menu.

That could be the most depressing notion I've heard all year. I'll tell you what: I like Off the Vine fine the way it is, but if Andy White decides to change up the entire menu, I'll go back. Eagerly.

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